TRAVELING IN CHINA

The Western New Year came and went. December 31st was a quiet night. We went to a New Year's "Ball," run by students, which was poorly attended. We enjoyed ourselves on an uncrowded dance floor. At 9:30, the usual end of dance time, we strolled back to our apartment and watched a video and Chinese TV. At midnight we listened for noise but heard none. I think in the big cities, like Chongqing there was some. The Chinese New Year was not until January 25 so January 1st was not a big day for them. I got to watch some bowl games thanks to a computer feed and enjoyed the short break from school. We had to make up the three day holiday. For us that meant rescheduling classes and compacting our exam schedule. We had to have all our grades ready and turned in by January 6. By grace, we did it.

January 7 we left Yongchuan for Chengdu. We had three days of inservice training. Mostly we were looking forward to seeing our friends from the summer. We had only seen the few who live in Chongqing. The language test went well and we both felt good about our progress. Thanks for your prayers. The sessions were long but the laughter was real. We met some new people, China 13's, and enjoyed them. We had some good meals with friends. We were able to explore the area around Sichuan University, so we feel more at home in the city. Two discoveries are worthy of note -- a Turkish restaurant and a bookstore/library called The Bookworm. Some China 13's introduced us to the restaurant, complete with hookahs, though we didn't sit on the floor on cushions the way they do in Turkey. Nor did we personally sample the pipes. The Bookworm bears some similarities to Borders though it is much, much smaller and most of the books are donated oldies but goodies. There are plenty of comfortable places to sit. Best of all IT WAS WARM. Rich and I had special fun reading a few books to two wee Chinese, a brother and a sister.

We left Chengdu to start our solo travels on January 11. We were helped to the airport by a student from my model school class, who seems to know all sorts of important things like the airline will send a van to pick you up if you have purchased your ticket ahead of time and you have it it hand. Yippee. Everything seemed to be going so smoothly. Then.... At the counter getting our boarding passes it was discovered that I had another volunteers passport and he probably had mine. We remembered that we had checked into the hotel at the same time and the mixup must have happened then. After some negotiation back and forth in second languages we were given boarding passes based on my copy of my passport -- take note *** one should always carry a copy of one's passport*** and my work permit (It has my picture and it lists my passport number) We left the errant passport at the airport for someone to pick up and hoped my passport would be forwarded to me. Security was skeptical, but we got through. The fight was uneventful but we wondered about our other flight and hotels which require passports. (Later the Peace Corps security person told me that he never heard of the airlines allowing someone to fly on the copy of a passport. The passport was never forwarded, and we spent all of our travels without one.) God is good.

We arrived in Kunming and were met by Li Yanlin and her father. We had met Yanlin on a previous trip to China, and she is now a student in America who has visited our home. They graciously got us dinner and drove us to where we would be staying on the Yunnan Agricultural University campus. We had a great four cold days in Kunming. It is the city of eternal spring, but not for our stay. We visited with Yanlin and her family, saw the campus, visited some sights around the city, and even explored by bus on our own. We felt good to be able to manage this, eat and make purchases. Most of all we got to meet some great people as we gathered at night around the table at Yanlin's home, Among them was a teenage boy whose English is better than most of my College Junior English majors. We also visited some young Chinese whom we had met on our trip to Kunming several years ago with Clifford Liu.

From Kunming we flew to Lijiang in the mountains of Yunnan Province. We were concerned about the cold, but the sun shown everyday and we were able to walk about without our winter coats. Lijiang is beautiful. The scene of Snow Mountain hovering over the pool of Black Dragon Pond is gorgeous. Each day we explored a little more of the old town, but there is still more to see and do. One exciting thing about our stay was that we were at Mama Naxi's Guest House. It is a "lonely Planet" recommended place. It was full each night with young people from all over the world. What a delight to sit around the table and talk with them. A second highlight was going to an unregistered church. We were escorted by a young Chinese missionary to a home on the outskirts of the city. What a great experience there and also with his family for the day. A third experience was in our search for a Buddhist temple. We could see it but we couldn't find a way to get there. We asked a number of people in our "great" Chinese. They kept pointing up. We went up. Near the top of the hill we still could see no signs of a path, so we asked once more. A wonderful man motioned that we should follow him. That was not too unusual because Chinese are very kind and often go out of their way to take us to a place we are seeking. However, he took us to his home where we had tea and fruit and a half an hour or more of conversation in two languages. Then he took us to the roof of his house and showed us the Buddhist temple on another hill (You can't get there from here.) The panorama was worth the climb in itself. We returned before we left Lijiang and had lunch with him. He says to come back, so maybe we will return to beautiful Lijiang. One funny thing about that second visit was that they were expecting company, the first ever visit from their son's girlfriend's family. The lady of the house was pretty upset with her husband for sitting around and saying he was not busy when she pretty obviously thought he should be. We couldn't understand the words, but the intent seemed pretty clear:)

Next we moved on to Dali. We did this bus totally on our own and got to our destination the Three Pagoda Youth Hostel just outside the north gate of the old city. We strolled the city and then returned to see what dinner around this table would be like. Totally different. The guests were Chinese, and English was at a premium. During dinner we expressed our hopes for the next day. After dinner as we talked with the receptionist trying to set up our day when two of the dinner guests appeared, and soon we were all planning. We had a delightful day with them and the receptionist and a private driver and even a meal. The two were teachers from Taiwan on holiday. One of the highlights was a performance by the Bai people which included the serving of "three cups of tea." I wish I had my book here so that I could read the significance of those three cups in Three Cups of Tea. But the day wasn't over. A young couple heard that we wanted to go to town for a Tibetan dinner and they invited us to join them - two more teachers, this time from Chongqing. A good meal and great conversation was had by all as we walked the city before and after dinner.

We were off to Kunming in the morning by bus. An accident on the road made it a long day. It also allowed us to experience the worst public toilet we have seen in China. IT was truly "any port in a storm" and it served the purpose. We returned to Yunnan Agricultural University for the night. There we had a feast of a dinner with the young English speaker's family and our hosts. Of course, everyone had to have breakfast together and then we experienced a mad dash to the airport in the congested traffic of Kunming. It was harrowing, but another memory for our growing memory bank. We will also remember lots of warm beds, which were very hard to leave each morning for the rest of our world, which was usually not at all warm. Even Lijiang and Dali started each day in chill mode.

There was some time constraint for our trip because of the Spring Festival which we were to celebrate with our Host Family from the summer. THAT IS THE NEXT STORY!

CHRISTMAS

People started asking us if we would go home for Christmas (Sheng Dan Jie) many weeks ago. Just the thought made us homesick. They understand that Christmas is a family holiday so they assumed we would join our family just like they will for their Spring Festival. Except for this reminder we mostly were too busy to worry about Christmas.

• Our first Christmas party was sponsored by the Electricity and Engineering Department. They invited Renee and I to be part of their entertainment for the party. We were to be the feature of a game like Name That Tune. We arrived early and practiced. They gave us ear phones and played a Chinese tune. We were to hum or sing along and contestants were to name that tune and sing it. We weren't sure anybody could, but we agreed to "have a try." We didn't always get the words, but Renee can pick out any tune. The contestants or the audience got every one. Our gift was a too large Santa as you can see in the picture with other gifts. It was fun and an honor to be invited.
  
• On December 18 Renee and several of the other foreign teachers went to Chongqing for a celebration. (Some of us had classes and had to work.) It was a long ride and a long day. The program was entertainment by foreign students from the province. Renee got to see our other Peace Corps friends, so it was worth the time and effort to attend, but barely.
  
• Both Renee and I had our classes do Pollyannas. We included ourselves. I gave Welsh Cookies for my gift and Renee gave a crocheted rose for hers. Of course, our Pollyanna's loved their gifts. The students each got a gift - made or bought for 7 RMB ($1) or less. The students loved every minute of it. We talked about giving and receiving gifts American style. It's very interesting that in China when a person receives a gift he or she puts it aside to open later in private. You know, of course, in America we can hardly wait to see what is inside the wrapping. The gift giving speeches should have been recorded. The receiving couldn't be. There were mostly shrieks of joy and hugs all around for the simple gifts. We were thanked often for the great activity. Even the boys who were the special targets got into the spirit.
  
• For the last month we both taught our Freshmen classes a Christmas song each week. They learned Deck the Halls, Joy to the World, Jingle Bells, and Silent Night. The purpose was so that we could go caroling. They learned the songs with gusto. The night wasn't so nice with a slight mist and a solid chill. About 100 showed up - by the end of the evening maybe 50 or so. Many brought candles and that was a thrill for them. We sang at many of the dorms and were well received by those who knew we were there. The Physical Education dorm especially went crazy. Caroling was a first for the students. They had some interesting reflections. One said that she had experienced American culture. Another said that when we bring happiness to others, that is our happiness. Indeed. We could not pull together hot chocolate and cookies but maybe next year.
• 
  Christmas Eve Day we began to get presents. The most common present is an apple. We aren't clear about the why, but it is the time for apple parties where they paint, carve, and at midnight eat an apple. It has something to do with healthy and happy or safety and the new year or purity and wholeness or full life - the story is not clear. The students were generous in their good wishes and gifts. They want us to be "happy every day." The Foreign Language Department had a Christmas entertainment. There was little Christmasy about it, but it was fun. Renee was included in the program singing her lullaby with her students. My song "When Christmas Comes to Town," which I was to do with one of classes was axed from the program. (to Rich's chagrin) The school provided transportation so the other teachers and students got a free ride back to our XingHu
  campus.
• I said others because Renee and I didn't go back. To the consternation of those who watch over us we went by public transport to church. We missed the Protestant celebration at 7:30, but the Catholic service was at 9:30. When we got off the bus, the street was crowded with people as was the walkway up to the church (You can't see the church from the street.) The gate to the church was blocked by the police. They readily admitted us - we think they were keeping drunks out. Inside the whole area was lit with lights as was the steeple of the church as seen in the picture to the left. The courtyard was mobbed and we could have been swallowed up in it. There were fireworks, music, entertainments, foods, and people everywhere. We still do not understand that scene of revelry and what exactly the people are celebrating here in China at Christmas time. It seemed like a medieval fair. A stage was set up at one end of the courtyard and people were running around in funny lighted hats. Vendors provided snacks. Finally, we made our way to the church itself. There were mobs of people there as well. We went to where we usually sit hoping to find our seat mates from Sunday, but no. We found a good place to stand, but the choir director was looking for us. She is a librarian at our school and she had taught Richard -- in Chinese, mind you -- the song for Christmas Eve. She had us pulled through the crowd and we joined the choir in the front - conspicuous we were. The church seats 600 and there wasn't any standing room so perhaps 1000 were there. Balloons and lights and flowers were everywhere and the crowd never really quieted. There were three processions - the priests and leaders == children carrying a creche to the altar -- wise men bringing gifts which were the communion elements as well as a bucket to receive an offering. The choir that night was made up of some students from the college and the choir leader and organist, who is also from the college. They were careful to guard us in the crowd and around midnight we returned home.
  Christmas Day was Thursday my (Rich) heavy class load day. My Chinese tutors had arranged, though, to have lunch with me. They also brought along a small collection of student friends, but not those I teach. We went out for lunch and had a grand time, planning the next two years and all they want me to do. It was fun. The most interesting of these guests was an art student who barely speaks English. I have been working with him for a month or so. He has made great progress. (Not the point but I love the piece he is working on which is a block print = he has to make 5. I hope I get one of them) He pulled me aside and gave me a hand carved block so I can seal my writings, another example of the kindness in their extreme busyness of holidays and exams. This was followed by a gathering of the foreign teachers in the Russian artist apartment. We shared some laughs and some food and cheer and hopefully made a new bond between us.
  
• My (Renee) students too outdid themselves to keep our spirits up. Thanks to them we have a little Christmas tree with flashing lights on the TV and a huge red happiness knot hanging from the ceiling, and two Chinese lanterns displayed on the balcony. I also have a huge teddy bear and a lion pillow in which can be imbedded my Ipod so I can listen to music while I sleep. Nonetheless, we could hardly bear to think much about Christmas with family and friends at home.
  
• Soon we will travel to Chengdu (January 7) to participate in a few days of further training.
• For the moment the Peace Corps has nixed our travel plans after that, so we are not sure what will happen. We have quite a long vacation; school does not begin again until mid-February, but we can only be away from our site for a limited number of days. Ah, sweet mystery of life, complicated by many, many rules and restrictions.

Those of you who pray -- pray for our Chinese language test on January 7. We are trying not to obsess about it. Our Chinese works well enough for us to do our daily living and then some, but we have a long way to go:),

PARTY TIME

The weather has turned cold. Today the temperature was in the high 40's. It seems colder than that because it is a wet cold. In the past two weeks we have had some beautiful weather even into the 60's with sun. Then there were several days in a row where there was drizzle and clouds and the feeling of cold. Supposedly, December is better and it becomes drier. (Then our skin will dry out and our lips will crack:) We will see. Of course, the Chinese thought that winter was here when the temperature dropped below 70 here in Yongchuan. I may soon have to get out my winter coat!
There have been three parties of note since we wrote last. (The Chinese call almost any gathering a party = I will have to think what they call them in Chinese. In English it is party.) The first was a birthday party. I had met a businessman from Yongchuan at English Corner. He came because he is going to American next year on business and he is working on his English. Jerry hopes to make that good enough that one of the companies he will visit will offer him a job in America. He has taken me to lunch and to dinner. He called and invited us to his birthday party. He met us and took us by taxi to a restaurant. There we joined his friends. As is common in China, they are his friends from Middle School (High School days) In total 12 people. We had a delicious meal around a Chicken hot pot. Maybe it was mild because of the western guests. They (we) had a good time around the table talking and laughing. Then the drinking games began. Each person took turns challenging one by one the others to a game in which the loser drinks. They did it well and everyone survived nicely. From there we went to a Karaoke bar (here it is called KTV. We actually had a private room with our own technology. ) They sang and we sang and danced. They had a grand time and we tried to relax. The next day was a school and work day so we were not late. Jerry saw us to and arranged a taxi to take us back to campus since the busses stop running at 8. Good time was had by all.

The second party was the Freshman English Majors turn to run an entertainment for the campus. It was one of the Saturday night affairs we have described before. There is some singing and dancing and usually a funny skit or two and an audience participation game. This show featured Renee and two of her students playing guitar and singing. They sang a Chinese lullaby. The students and audience went wild that a foreigner could sing in Chinese. Crowd estimates are hard, but it filled the basketball court and most of the seats surroundding it. I think about a 1000 attend. The night ends with a dance - bunny hop, chacha, and waltz. The dance lasts until 9:30 and then the crowd disperses.
Party number three was Thanksgiving. We went to Chongqing to celebrate on Saturday after the fact (we taught on the day). We managed the transportation and with some help the big city public busses as well to arrive at Renee Vetch's (Can you believe that in our small group of volunteers there is another Renee??!!)apartment. Renee is another volunteer who is working in Chongqing. Renee had the meal well in hand with many things at a good stage of preparation. We arrived and talked and planned. Jason LaBoyer, another volunteer from California, then joined us . Jason and I went out to get some last minute items and the women folk worked in the kitchen. The party was joined by their language tutor and Renee's waiban. The last guest was another foreign teacher. Margaret is from Kentucky by way of England. What American accent are the students learning?? We had a grand time around the table. It felt like Thanksgiving.
Christmas is coming and there are some plans in the air, maybe. There are suppose to be two Christmas parties that the school runs - one at each campus and we will be invited. Renee and I have been invited to sing but so far that seems an idea rather than a reality. Renee and the other foreign teachers will go to a big deal Christmas program in Chongqing on the 18th while I am teaching. We think the churches have Christmas eve services and we are trying to arrange being able to attend. We are teaching our classes some Christmas carols and plan to take them caroling. They are excited about the idea. We get raisins on Tuesday and will try to make a slew of Welsh cookins, an Erickson treat, to give as gifts. There are too many people here we would like to give to so we have some figuring out to do. The students have studied about Christmas every year since they started learning English. They can sing Jingle Bells, Silent Night, and We Wish You a Merry Christmas. We hope to share the meaning of Christmas so they can hear it anew and from a new perspective.

Things feel a bit breathless. This last picture is of me and several of Rich's students. One of his class leaders is arranging small dinner gatherings, about 8 students at a time, so that Rich will have a chance to talk more with his students and vice versa. I have been invited to join them, and sometimes I do. I am amazed at the level of English skill that his juniors have in comparison to my freshmen. My students have a long way to go. Rich and I just discovered that we have to take a Mardarin Chinese test when we go for our triaining meeting in January. Yikes! Talk about having a long way to go. We do. And I hate tests!!! Oh well.

DAILY LIFE AT SCHOOL

Our lives are full in China. We have or could have constant contact. Besides our own students we have two campuses full of students who would like to talk with us and get to know us. Two examples: on Friday night an art student from HongHe was at XingHu. He saw us and spent as much time as he could and I tried to arrange an English tutor for him. Last night we went to another party and the photographer of the event - a student - came up to us afterward to tell us he had many pictures of us and he wants to show them to us. Both evenings we had to untangle ourselves to get home. We have community - neighbors both Chinese and international who would like to talk. We have town friends from the two churches we are attending and from the English Corner where some town people get an English taste. Tonight we go to one of the businessmen's birthday party.

Today we plan to share typical a day in our school lives.

Rich leaves the house at 7:20 on Tuesday mornings. He takes a bus from XingHu to HongHe where he teaches. The bus ride is shared with many colleagues but on Tuesday especially with "Colin" a Chinese classics teacher. This Tuesday he shared a book of classic Chinese poetry. After the 35 minute bus ride he walks across campus to his class. His class is made up of 30 English majors who plan to be teachers. The class runs for 100 minutes with a 10 minute break. The object is to work on oral English skills and provide opportunity for them to speak.

After class he goes to his office in another building on the fifth floor. It is large with a corner view and many windows. He quickly walks to the art room nearby where a friend from Russia teaches and compliments the young artists. At 10:30 he has office hours. Today five people show up to talk: Three senior girls (all English majors, a young man from the Industrial Economy, and a business English major.) The main topic of conversation is the state of the economy in the West and how it impacts China. They have been given hope by the American election and think that the economy will turn around quickly "now that Obama is President." At 11:30 the girls excuse themselves. The men evaluate the morning and think about lunch. The three have lunch of noodles and conversation. They are joined by a couple of other students and leisurely eat their meal. The picture is a view from the fourth floor classroom into the courtyard of the mamouth building.

At 1:00 he heads back to his office to meet his Tuesday Chinese tutor. The session this day is a continuation of learning the names of body parts and then using them in conversation. The session is supposed to be over at 2 but always lingers on, as they like each other company. Rich heads off to a 2:30 class. It is the same lesson as the morning so the class is easy. While each class has its own personality, the point is pretty much the same. After class he heads to the library. There he reads the English language newspapers and visits with his librarian friend. On this day they discuss how busy the Chinese teachers are because of schoolwide exams - the students this weekend had one of various exams necessary for graduation or certificate - computer knowledge, Chinese Speaking (Mandarin), and Oral English proficiency. Back at the office he goes next door to visit the art class and his two art major friends who are learning English. He has arranged tutors for them with his students. He retreats to his office where he reviews his Chinese lesson and vocabulary. One other ritual of Tuesday afternoon is to try and make contact in the English department. After a quick hello to several and on this day no extended conversations, he is back to the office.

Always checking the time because he can't miss his bus, in the dark at 6 he leaves the office for the bus. The bus leaves at 6:10. The 35 minute ride home is conversation with Jerry or Herbert , two men who live in our apartment complex. After what now seems like a trek across campus - the square, the playground, the hill, he arrives home at 7. One day done.

Well, I cannot top that, but here goes my Tuesday. Some things about it are not at all typical. After checking the weather forecast on the computer, I dress for class, fix and eat breakfast, say goodby to Rich, and leave for my class. It is about a 7 minute walk. Today I want to arrive early because I have some information that I want to write on the board for their exam next week. When two of the boys arrive (most of my students are girls), I request that they go down to the guard's office and retrieve my amplifier and microphone. I used to lug it back and forth from our apartment, but the guard has kindly let me keep it in a corner of his home. It would be nice to have my own classroom, but such is not the case. Today I have also brought the computer. (Students and teachers whom I do not even know sometimes stop me on campus and ask "Why do you carry so many things around with you?" I wish I had a good answer. Too many ideas. The picture is a view from my teaching building.

I have the computer because I want to show my students a short power point about the fall leaves in Pennsylvania. They are properly impressed. One student blurts, "Is this real?" Indeed. The best I can understand the leaves do not change color around here, perhaps because of a different sort of climate -- a bit warmer and very wet. Then I give the directions for our oral exam next week. I hope it is manageable. I am trying to see every student individually in four minute time allotments. By this time we are near the break. I ask my students to take out their homework - a basic reponse to the chapter. I love to ask students "What are you thinking?" and today they are thinking a lot because the chapter is about relationships. True love, they like to say. They work in groups to answer such questions as "Describe the perfect wife/husband." "At what age should girls marry? Boys? Why" It is my best lesson in China so far. I should have been observed:)

The second class is not so successful -- telephoning is not nearly as interesting as true love.

Then it's home to lunch. Some students keep me company on the walk home. Today I call a friend of former Peace Corps volunteers, Becky, who manages a DVD store in YongChuan. I am going to see her. That requires a 10 minute walk to the bus stop and a 40 minute ride on the bus to town and a 20 minute walk from the bus stop to Becky's. It is pleasant, though, and I have my little treats that I buy along the way -- a sweet bean filled roll and some popcorn.

I bring my knitting and sit on a stool on the sidewalk outside of Becky's store and knit. Maybe women stop buy and chat (as well as we can). There are two yarn shops nearby. After awhile I talk to Becky about visiting a student of mine in the hospital. She says she will accompany me and we enjoy a 20 minute walk and chat back toward the bus stop.

One of my students has broken her leg. Becky and I visited. Suffice it to see, if you can stay healthy and out of the hospital, that is always the best thing. Since then she has had surgery and is mending -- perfectly I hope. I also have a student with a very serious injury suffered in a fall at the Sports Meet over the past weekend. I do not know where he is.

Picture of one of Rich's students shot putting. Picture of Sean #4 our good friend and masseur

the school 5000M walk champion.

Then it's back on the bus. Becky and my student are both worried about me and want to know that I have gotten home safely. I do. The bus ride is uneventful, which is fine. I walk 10 minutes back home and work on dinner. Rich arrives. We eat. I clean up. We work a little, and try to get to bed around 10:00. I miss my chiropractor. I need a tune-up and my poor shoulders where I carry my stress are not happy. Anyway, you can see that we have plenty to do. We're sure that you do too. A common student expression -- "I have something to do." -- can be used to end any interaction at any time, abruptly. It's pretty interesting.

SINGING CITY and OLD CITY

It is amazing that we are approaching the mid point of the first semester. We have been in China for four months. Sometimes it seems forever and sometimes it seems like forever. I think that both of these feelings are normal. Our classes continue to be enjoyable. One of these blogs will have to be a description of a day in my life - three days a week I am on the go for 12 hours. My juniors can do much more complicated work than I have given them so far. I will need to find ways to stretch them. Renee's freshmen and mine are not close to doing what the Juniors can do. How do we get them from where they are to that place? It is not completely our job. The students have four English language classes - oral, written, listening, and pronunciation. (This is 8 of their 22 hours of class.) My juniors also study American literature.

Since we wrote last, we have been to Chongqing twice. We saw a Chinese Opera. We have attended at least three parties (They call almost any gathering a party) where we danced. We have been to three musical shows. We have eaten with students and with one group had a four hour sit around a hotpot. We have played tennis and the piano. I met several times with the leaders of the Green Heart Environmental Project Assocuiation. They agreed with me to clean up around the lake. (Unfortunately, there is litter in China just like in America.) We met and discussed when and where and how to organize. Things sounded great, and I was excited except they put off doing it for several weeks. Ten days before the event they changed the date. The day before the publicity was to go up they changed where they were going to meet (that decision took two hours with the choice being between beside the lake or in the square). Therefore there was no time to decide the time to meet. Two days later it took almost two hours to decide 7:30 in the morning (I think they wanted to limit participation -they kept telling me that they would have hundreds take part) The day came with a light mist in the air - apparently not light enough because they canceled the clean up until the next "fine day." Will they revisit all of their decisions? I have told them to let me know. (Renee - actually, a lot of things do get accomplished around here; we are just not sure how that happens.)

The two highlights of the weeks included a day in Chongqing with a group of young male singers. Renee had heard them practicing and took me to hear them. We enjoyed the experience. The director then asked if we would like to come along for the performance. What fun. We traveled on their bus and were cared for. When we got to Chongqing, they took us to lunch and we had a great time with a few of the members. The young men in tuxedo shirts and black ties looked great and sounded better. Their performance was flawed by mikes that weren't quite balanced, but it did not hurt their sound. We returned to Yongchuan where we ate again and had several rounds of toasts celebrating the day and their achievement. The boys never fail to greet us on campus and we are now part of the music community here. One of our lunchmates is the one who took us to dinner with his friends and is learning Bless the Broken Road by Rascal Flatts.

The other highlight was a trip to one of China's old cities. The government has designated 50 of them to be refurbished for tourists. Song Ji is one of them. Fortunately, we got there before the huge hotel and large housing complexes are finished. We went with several young people from XingHu (Star Lake) campus. Not our students, but they are friends. One of them was our guide since he goes there often. We got there by bus which was an experience in itslf. The old town has narrow streets and cobblestones with huge doors along the way. We saw people playing cards and majong, eating, and selling, and kids playing. It was fun. We found an old house which was for a rich family and had a hundred rooms. We didn't see them all but what fun for a kid playing hide and seek. We then walked through town and market to the Yangtze River (Chang Jiang), Scampering back to town center to catch the last bus (We aren't sure of what danger we were in or not - the students didn't seem to worry.), we boarded just in time, it seemed, and then we were back on that long, bumpy, underconstruction road. Fortunately, by that time most of the huge trucks were going home for the day. When we returned, we ate on the street at a vendor who stir fries your choices of meats and vegetables. The fare tastes delicious but is probably not so good for. It was a good day.

Today it is raining, yesterday it rained, tomorrow it is supposed to rain, and tomorrow and tomorrow and tomorrow. I'm not sure if the two weeks of lovely cool clear weather was all we get of autumn or not. We have tried to ask about whether the leaves change color or not, but that question gets lost in translation. Based on what we see, the answer is no. A few leaves have fallen, but they are mostly green. Although the natural environment may be heading for winter, around our neighborhood life is bursting forth. We have had three new babies in just the last two weeks. One young family have become our friends and we were very excited when Liao Jing safely delivered a boy this week, though she did have to have a C-section. The baby has an auspicious name, something that is very important in China. He is Ji Dian Shuai. The first two names are family names, but the last one means handsome and leader. In fact, when you want to say that a young man is handsome, you say "shuai ge." (schwhy guh)

WE'VE ONLY JUST BEGUN

School began in earnest for both of us over the last three weeks and then there was a week of holiday. My audio visual classes are going well. The textbook is about a Chinese student coming to an American University. It is an interesting idea. In a couple of the classes I am using the theme of friendship as the basis for their conversations. It was fun to hear them sing "Stand by Me." Their dialogues about standing by their friends were very good and revealing. In all of the classes, we do some pronunciation drills and some vocabulary building. They report to my superiors that they like it. I'm not sure that is a very good way to judge a class.

My other English activity also started. I am responsible for an English Corner on the campus where I teach. It made for one very strange day. I taught a class at 8AM and then returned to the other campus, had lunch, and taught at 2:30. Then I dropped off my books and grabbed an apple and took the public bus 45 minutes to the other campus. I spent an hour from 6-7 conversing in English with whoever came. Following the chats, I went with two students for some dinner where we watched the clock for the last bus to my home at 7:40. I made the bus but when we got into Yongchuan everyone got off but me and the driver said the end. Well, I wasn't home. Things were a little nervous, but I called my waiban who told me another bus would come in about 10 minutes. Was I not on the last bus? I still don't know. Being old and a foreigner got me onto the already full bus where I stood on one foot for about 20 minutes until a couple of people got off the bus. The solution to the problems of the evening are still to be debated.

I continue to enjoy my tennis. I now have been working with some of the new players and running some drills for the older players. I am having a great time. This would never happen in America. One tennis outing was with the President of the University and his wife as well as some of the other officials. The other great thing has been the vacation. On Monday 14 of us - mostly students - climbed the local mountain Wang Gua Shan. Not a big mountain but a good hike. In typical Chinese style the outting took six hours. We climbed and walked and explored and then ate lunch together. Great time was had by all. We then on Tuesday and Wednesday had company; another Peace Corps couple came to stay overnight, Matt and Katie Bridges from Virginia. The visit went pleasantly and gave us confidence that we can handle company. The school had dances at least three nights and we enjoy them when we aren't teaching freshmen to dance. Friday we went to Chongqing. We stayed with one of our PCV friends, Gayle. We went to celebrate two birthdays. Jason threw himself a party - I didn't realize I had missed chocolate until I ate the chocolate frosted chocolate brownie. This was washed down with a milk shake. Our good friends from Chengdu gathered and we visited on Saturday over Belgian waffles, Indian food, and then a cruise around Chongqing harbor. It is amazing how close you feel to these people who have been through and are going through what you are. The other exciting occasion was the trip. We had been nervous about heading out on our own, but at both stations we maneuvered ourselves and to my surprise the ticket sellers got out tickets for us on our first try.

Let me add my two cents or so:) On the climb up the mountain, the students learned the word "winded," which I definitely was and had to ask for a rest quite a few times. For me the ascent was a challenge, although nothing like what Lia and Ned were doing on their vacation. More than half the students were boys, some upperclassmen from Rich's campus and a few freshmen that we had invited or who heard about the climb from a friend or who just joined us at the last moment because they saw a group. The girls were all freshmen, some my students, some not.They all blended quite nicely and I was so proud of my girls because they did not giggle or simper or even flirt -- much -- but just chatted with the guys like they had been friends forever.

One girl was amazingly knowledgeable about the trees we passed, including persimmon and loquat (I haven't looked that up yet.) And one surprise was to see some cactus growing since this is such a humid climate. My special hero was a fellow whose English name is Jackson, who is auditing as many foreign teachers' classes as he can manage because he wants to learn to speak English better and better. Anyway, he is the one who helped me down the rough terrain on the way back. I'm sure he was relieved when we reached the bottom. I know I was.

I am enjoying my classes, what few I have had. I have about 240 students all told in classes of approximately 30. But since I see them only once a week, learning their names and relating to them in a meaningful way is quite a challenge. The ones I know best have walked me home from class. It also helps if they come to English Corner. My first goal for my classes is to convince them that if they are serious about learning English, they need to speak English outside of class. English Corner is one possibility. I was surprised at how well some of them talked in that informal setting when they seemed to be barely able to speak a sentence in class. Now my students will have two weeks of military training (only freshmen) and will probably need to be motivated all over again. Ah, well. I am hoping to put my free time to good use although making productive use of unstructured time is not my strong suit. My biggest hope is that I can get established with a tutor and start to work on learning more Chinese. As I have heard Rich say, as long as we can control the conversation, we stand a chance of being able to communicate, but as soon as the conversation passes out of our control, which can happen after "Ni hao", we are easily lost.

YONGCHUAN, CHONGQING

Our lives have been moving fast since last we wrote. On September 3rd we were sworn in as Peace Corps volunteers. Until then we were trainees. Thirty five of the thirty six took the oath. We were sworn in by the head of the Peace Corps from Washington, Ron Tschetter. It was Renee's birthday so she got extra attention. After the ceremony we said our goodbyes, ate lunch, and were whisked off to Yongchuan by our waiban (Foreign Affairs Officer).

We are living on the Xinghu Campus of Chongqing University of Arts and Sciences. Our campus is beautiful. The entry road is tree lined and runs along the lake. The lake is off to one side of the campus. Many of Renee's classrooms leave her a beautiful view. The lake has fish and the opportunity for some boating. There is also an island connected to the mainland by a walking bridge. It is a secluded and peaceful spot. Chinese couples are there as evening falls. The center of the campus is a huge plaza for gatherings and then sports fields and two tennis courts, The students live off to one side up a hill and the faculty live off to the other side up a hill. We live separate from most in a building mostly for the seven foreign teachers.

Our apartment has a living room of reasonable size with a comfortable couch - TV, washing machine, dryer, microwave, and water dispenser. The study has two computers with printer and a wireless hookup. We are enjoying working side by side rather than vying for the computer. The room also has a cupboard, and table and chairs for eating. It opens up to a small balcony. The bedroom is also of a good size. We have outfitted with a comfortable bed. (Rich was not too thrilled with the pink bedspread and matching pillows, but we have toned it down a bit with a more masculine looking topsheet.) There is a good sized wardrobe built in. The bathroom is a western style - thank you. The kitchen is small. The stove and limited counter space is low so I hope Renee and I don't hurt our backs. We bought a wok and have a rice cooker. We are set.

Among the great things that has happened is that one of the other foreign teachers is married to a Chinese woman. Nina would like to learn English and Renee would like to learn to cook. In part, I am the winner in that deal. Renee and Nina have been going to the open market for meat and vegetables - sanitation boards would go crazy. (Nina is also coaching me a little on my Chinese language. We laugh a lot. Most of the good food Nina has cooked, but I'm learning a bit. Much of the seasoning is a combination of ginger, garlic, and onions, soy sauce and vinegar and something like powdered chicken boullion, also salt and sugar.)

Renee starts teaching next week. She has eight Freshman classes of oral English. It looks like two of them are large. I have seven classes of Juniors on the new campus. The ride is horrible - I'll have to think how to describe it. My classes started last week. I enjoyed meeting them and reports back to me are good. They are capable students. On the new campus I have a large corner office with a great view. The schedule gives me a lot of time to use the office. I plan to have my Chinese tutoring done there. I'm off on Fridays, but Peace Corps rules say I can't leave site until 5. My eighth class is a Freshman class at Xinghu. I meet them this Wednesday.

For me my best things are three Chinese young men. Bob is in one of my classes. He has helped me with the computer (everything is in Chinese). He has talked with me, introduced his girlfriend, and shared some of Chinese student life. It will be my first try at tutoring. A second student is Xiang. I met him at the Traditional medicine clinic on campus. He is their best student. After my massage there I contacted him and he has agreed to give me massages at half the price at my apartment. What a wonderful young man. He has high asperations. The third is a group of tennis players. I have now played with them several times. I have also watched their practice several days. At this point I'm invited in and kabitz with the coaches and teachers. Two of them are names Zhou (Joe)' They invite me to play. On Saturday not only did we play, but Renee and I went with them for Duck Soup for lunch. I hope this relationship will grow. All I need to do is become proficient in Chinese.

I (Renee) feel that our life is filled with serendipities, which I know are the results of your prayers. God is very good to us. One day we met an older couple. An affectionate name for a person is Lao whatever. They said we could call them Lao Shang and Lao Wang. I guess we would be Lao Erickson. Perhaps we will share a picture of them one of these days. We can barely communicate with each other, but we seem to hit it off. Then there is Miranda, a Chinese friend of one of the other foreign teachers, who gave us a lesson in Tai Chi in the center of the campus one evening. Americans think they are interested in staying fit, but Chinese are serious about it. Women my age are agile and vigorous and walk with purpose. They love to ask how old we are and share that information. Here it is not impolite to ask. One other wonderful thing for me is that I can occasionally use one of the practice rooms in the music department to play the piano. The room is small with no sound absorbtion and the piano is well tuned, so I sound almost good:) I am a little anxious about my teaching; hopefully, I will quickly get into the swing of things.